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Great Keppel Island, December 20th
After a tough week or so of cycling from Brisbane up the main highway, up
to 170kms a day, I took a couple of days off in a beautiful and tranquil
island called Great Keppel. The sand was hot and white and scrunched
underfoot, the water various shades of azure and turquoise, and there was
barely a human to be seen. Plenty of little harmless sharks, dolphins,
turtles, rays, iguanas and colourful, loud birds. It was the perfect place
to put up my feet, which seem to have a tendancy to move in circular
motions now, and look back on the last week. I managed to drag myself away
this morning after getting up at 5.30am to go snorkelling on one of the
other islands (saw a little turtle) catch the early ferry back to the
mainland and get a good 100kms of cycling in for the day.
It's beginning to get very hot and the wet season is beginning. This poses
a few questions for the route. With the rainy season comes the cyclones
which can sometimes cut the roads off. The weather generally seems to up in
the air at the moment, the usual patterns are changing. In the last few
years,there have been few cyclones. This year, they have already begun and
there are a fair few forecasted. My problem is this: crossing from
Townsville to Darwin will lead me into the heart of Australia in mid
summer(40+c), when the cyclones reach their peak. Even now, there's been a
lot of storms further up the coast. Everyone offers different advice, but
the general agreement is that the summer is not the time to cross the
outback by car, let alone by bike.
My bike is far heavier than other
tourers, and I am covering much bigger distances. This means streamlining
the bike to the absolute minimum. Already, the sleeping bag and minidiscman
have had to go, and are currently winging their way back to the UK. I won't
need the sleeping bag for months, and the minidiscman, whilst brilliant, is
just too heavy. I cannot justify the weight and space. Even the tent will
probably be sent back from Indonesia, as it's not really a camping country.
I am thinking about sending it back and trying to pick up a more
lightweight one man tent or bivy bag out here. As for the route, I will
have to decide at Townsville, which I should reach around New Year. Part of
me says just cycle, but the Australian summer is very intense. I will ask
around at some marinas and see if anyone is heading to Indonesia from
Cairns. A flight would certainly be expensive.
I am reading "Travels" by Micheal Crichton, a kind of autobiography of his
travels, life in the film business and how it's all changed him. It's
excellent. Given to me by a girl called Chanah Hall. American father, both
were photographers in 60s and 70s and live in Holland Park.
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